BUILDING PULKS

Folks, here is where the real excitement start, when you start building your own pulks! A Pulk is a scandinavian short for low slung tobaggan used for snow sports or for transportation purposes usually pulled by dogs or skiers. These sleds are also used to carry supplies such as tents, food, clothing etc. which in our case will be dragged while we snow-shoe across the famous Kungsleden trail.

Choosing a sled is quite an easy process obviously depending on what activity you are doing to be doing and importantly how many days is your trip going to last. The idea is to still go as light as possible but still carry all necessary equipment and not eliminate anything that you might think "may be this will not be required"!

Building your own pulk only gives you a great option to customize it as per requirement. Here's what we did. We took a plastic sled that was just more than a meter long, deep and wide enough to hold a 140 liter duffel bag.

For customizing we've used:

1. PVC Pipes and 4 x T-joints

2. 5mm cord (about 10 - 15 meters)

3. Duck tape

4. Quick draw Carabiners

5. Bungee cord

6. Pull through's

Now it's pretty straight forward from here and should not take you more than an hour of relaxed working. Firstly the plastic sled had to be made a bit sturdier and also find a way to feed the rope through that would be used for pulling the sled. Drill enough holes all around the sled so that we can use pull through's and fix the pipe on each side of the sled. Make sure the pipe is duck taped all the way, this is prevent the pipe to brittle into pieces. Use alternate holes to use pull through's and tie the pipe to the sled. Use the other alternate holes for creating gear loops. These are very use full as they allow you to hold the weight down. Also, the pipe in the front will use 2 T-joints to which then the rest of the piping will be connected.

The idea here is to pull the weight from the back instead of threading it just through the front and dragging the weight. Hence, when you run the 5mm cord through, don't forget to consider abrasion of the rope against the edge of the pipe.

The piping towards the front will consist of 5 bits and 2 T-joints creating a "H" like structure with the carabiners in the front that will be attached to your harness to be able to pull it.

What we realized was these front piping need to be really sturdy and less flexible as it can be to be able to traverse in deep snow and your pulk stays stable. Also, while packing everything make sure all the equipment that is heavy in weight goes in first, right at the bottom of your pulk and the lighter weight equipment accordingly! Use the bungee cords to tie everything down to the gear loops and enjoy!

GEAR FOR THE EXPEDITION

Active Days

The general rule for traveling in cold or extreme cold conditions is to maintain a working temperature which, is best described as “comfortably cool”. The idea being that you minimize sweating in order to maintain the effectiveness of your insulating layers. Remember, water conducts heat twenty times more efficiently than air, and allowing your under-layers to

become soaked in sweat could be the first link in a negative chain of events. Moisture management in cold conditions is just as important as it is in hot conditions! In addition to compromising your insulation you are also increasing the likelihood of becoming dehydrated which, is often a major contributing factor in the onset of cold injuries: Frost Bite/Nip, Hypothermia etc.

Obviously, layering systems offer the most versatility for cold weather travel, and the more layers that you have in your system the easier it will be to tailor that system to the environment. Environmental conditions on the trip could be anything from unseasonable cold to unseasonably warm or a mixture of everything in between. Your layering system should be able to keep you comfortable in all foreseeable conditions whilst, within reason, being prepared for the unforeseeable, as with all outdoor gear; versatility is key.

Clothing within your system should obviously have good moisture management properties and should be synthetic and/or Merino Wool based, and this goes for your jocks as well, remember; Cotton in the hills, kills! And if it doesn't kill you, or anybody else for that matter, it will certainly make your trip more uncomfortable. Layering applies to all parts of the body. The correct sizing of the layers is important in order to avoid compressing the insulation provided by any particular item and, to avoid restricting blood flow. Layers with spaces between allow cold air to circulate, stripping away heat and allowing moisture to condense prematurely.

The clothing system outlined/suggested below is for travel in mountainous/open terrain, travel in heavily wooded/forested areas would require a slightly different approach with respect to abrasion resistance and the ability to enjoy the comfort of a campfire.

Note: Goretex and other waterproof/breathable fabrics are not necessarily good fabrics to employ as outer-layers in very cold conditions, due to the likelihood that bodily moisture will freeze before it has chance to pass through the fabric. It could also freeze within the fabric and expand the pores of the membrane.

Head:
• Balaclava: close fitting fleece, power-stretch, silk or base-layer.
• Over-hat: Windproof, over the ears, ideally with a peak.
• Face Mask: close fitting, wind-proof, breathable, comfortable.
• Neck Gaiter or Neck Protection: wind-proof.
• Eyes: Good Sunglasses/Goggles with good quality lenses – could be sunny and bright! Goggles offer more protection and comfort if walking head-on into a blizzard, a spare pair of goggles are essential but cheap ones will do!!

The other two layers in the system for your head are provided by the hoods of the two jackets suggested below.

Upper Body:
• Base-Layer
• Mid-Layer(s): at least two, maybe more depending on your choice, wind-proof qualities can be beneficial in your outer insulating layer but this is not essential as this quality will also be provided by your shell, TKA 100 is great, both Trespass and the Berghaus store have good deals on thinner effective insulating layers.
• Insulated Jacket: for travel, Redpoint Optimus or similar is ideal, if without hood extra insulation will be needed in your Head Layering system!
• Outer Layer: waterproof, windproof, breathable, with good hood which will accommodate all other Head layers.

Hands:
• Touch-Gloves: Inner gloves which offer enough tactility to carry out intricate tasks – doing up your laces, adjusting straps, operating your camera etc. Power-stretch, base-layer, silk, wind-stopper.
• Big Mitts or Gloves: either should accommodate your touch-gloves, mitts are warmer but less tactile, windproof/water repellent/breathable outer shell, insulated, wrist loops or other way of securing to your person is a very wise precaution, ideally gauntlet style – coming well up the wrist, spares are essential!!

Lower Body:
• Base Layer
• Mid Layer: TKA 100 Pants, Apex Pants, Paramounts etc.
• Outer Layer: waterproof, windproof, breathable.

Gaiters: Optional.

Boots: Warm, comfortable, well fitting.

Feet: A very personal but important choice; your feet are the last stop on the Northern Line with respect to receiving warm blood from the core, they also do a lot of work and take a lot of abuse on rough terrain. Last winter I used a pair of medium Smartwool hiking socks under a pair of the heavy Smartwool mountaineering socks. Again, correct sizing within the space available inside your boots is important. Cold sore feet suck! Socks get sweaty, dirty and compressed during the day and therefore loose their cushioning and insulation quickly. Personally, I feel that having fresh sock options is a low weight luxury that vastly increases my comfort and therefore enjoyment on long trips. They are also quite versatile and can be used as spare mitts, padding for sore hips, stuff-sacs etc. They're also great in a fight if you put two snooker balls inside and flail them around your head like a psycho! ;)

Inactive Nights:

Obviously, in the evenings or during prolonged periods of inactivity your bodies heat output will quickly drop and more insulation will be needed to maintain a comfortable temperature. In addition, nights are nearly always colder than days, especially in clear conditions where night time temperatures can drop by as much as twenty degrees, or more! A good, heavily insulated jacket will make life around camp significantly more comfortable, if it is very cold. Make sure the sizing is generous enough to accommodate an effective layering system appropriate to the conditions you expect to use the jacket in. Being able to fit your Redpoint Jacket underneath makes for a formidable cold weather system, but don't get it so big that it's useless without. Think about how much you are really going to use this item in the future as cost is obviously a major factor, if your planning to do future cold weather trips it may be worth an initial investment to get something really good.

Insulated Trousers: As above, something like Redpoint pants, Buffalo style Pile and Pertex, Down or other such trousers.

A note on clothing in general: Obviously, we will have no idea what the conditions will be like until we get there and I'm not suggesting that anyone goes out and spends piles of dosh on lots of shiny new gear. However, we have to be prepared for the reality that it could be bloody cold. Although the above is an ideal kit list for the trip, it is only intended as a guide for preparation but, a sensible and realistic choice of gear is essential for your own, and everyone-elses comfort and safety.


Personal Gear:

Backpack/Duffle bag: Large enough for all your gear.

Pulk: Including harness and pulling system (to be improvised).

Snow Shoes: MSR Denali Ascent / MSR Lighting Ascent

Trekking Poles: For snow shoeing, ones which have snow baskets not just trekking baskets, poles which are telescopic are more versatile as you can split them and use them as snow stakes/tent pole splints etc.

Map and Compass: at the very least.

Whistle: And any other survival gadgetry that you want to carry.

Sleeping Bag: For cold conditions, potentially down to about -30c. You may want to double-up on two three season bags instead of spending half your wages on an extreme winter bag. Buffalo make Pile and Pertex outer s which can be bought on there own, they're rated at about three seasons if used alone.

Sleeping Pad/Mat: Two sleeping pads can be a good idea in cold conditions, and a Thermarest with a cheap closed cell foam mat underneath works well. If you are lucky enough to own an Exped pad you will probably be OK with that alone.

Head-Torch: One which is good enough to travel by night with, should the need arise. Remember that all electrical gear will either need to be insulated from the cold, or, you will need to carry plenty of batteries!

Water Bottles: Having a Nalgene or similar water bottle is a good idea, as you can use it as a Hot Water Bottle to warm your sleeping bag an hour or so before you retire for the night. Also, getting out for a pee in the middle of the night when it's -30c outside is a seriously uncomfortable chore. Having a bottle (not metal-unless you enjoy that sort of thing) to pee in during the night, should the need arise, will be a big relief at the time!

Thermos Flask: If you want to carry a hot drink etc.

Eating Utensils: Bowl, Spork, Mug etc. None of which should be metal!

Toilet Tissue

Waste Bag/Container: Water tight, to carry out all rubbish.

Knife: Nothing crazy, just a reliable, sharp folder or multi-tool.

Spare/Repair Kit: For all your personal gear, extra cord, duck tape, seam grip, Thermarest puncture repair etc.

Personal Medication: For any life-threatening/debilitating diseases/conditions that you may have, and, if you do have any, make sure you have enough medication for the duration of the trip, and, make sure that you inform the rest of us about your condition, even if you think we already know, before the week prior to departure. “Personal Medication” also includes pain killers, anti-inflammatorys/biotic s, sunscreen, lip balm, blister protection or whatever you feel you may need during the trip.

Note: A comprehensive group First Aid Kit will be carried but, it will not include any form of medication, other than Aspirin. It will include at least one survival bag.

Group Gear:

Snow Shovel: To be discussed.

Avalanche Probe: To be discussed. If we need this then we also need Transceivers.

Tents: Dependant on number in group.

Tent Pegging Options: For deep snow and rocky frozen ground.

Two Way Radios: 1 set is probably a good idea.

First Aid Kit: To be discussed.

Stoves: As with tents. Pre-attached to a base plate to stop them sinking through snow.

Wind Shields and Heat Reflectors: For the above.

Fuel Bottles and Fuel: Quantity and number to be discussed. It may be a good idea to carry some form of priming gel or fire lighter to help in very cold conditions.

Fuel and Fire Lighting Devices: Matches, Lighters and Zirconium Fire Starters (Light-My-Fire).

Royal Geographical Society

The Geographical Society of London was founded in 1830 as an institution to promote the advancement of geographical science.

Like many learned societies at the time of enlightenment, it started as a dining club in London, where select members held informal dinner debates on current scientific issues and ideas.

Under the patronage of King William IV, it later became known as The Royal Geographical Society and was granted its Royal Charter under Queen Victoria in 1859. In 1912, the Society moved to its current location, Lowther Lodge.

The Society’s purpose remains the same today as when it was first founded, namely the ‘advancement of geographical science’. However, the manner in which that is done has expanded greatly over the years, while still continuing to include publishing, the support of field research and expeditions, lectures and conferences, and its collections.

The history of the Society was closely allied for many of its earlier years with ‘colonial’ exploration in Africa, the Indian subcontinent, the polar regions, and central Asia especially.

It enshrines such famous names as Livingstone, Stanley, Scott, Shackleton, Hunt and Hillary.

The Society also devoted much attention to education and was responsible for both the incorporation of the study of geography in schools at the turn of the 20th century and for the first university positions in the discipline.

With the advent of a more systematic study of geography, the Institute of British Geographers was formed in the 1933, by some Society fellows, as a sister body to the Society.

The RGS and IBG co-existed for 60 years until, after several years of discussion, they merged in January 1995 to create the new Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers).

Today, with 15,000 members, the Society is the largest and most active of the scholarly geographical societies. It advances geography through supporting geographical research, education and outdoor learning, public engagement and policy.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Fellowship

Benefit from a wider involvement with the geographical community

Be informed on new and emerging subjects through events and activities; advice and training.

Have unlimited use of our information, maps, guidebooks and travel documents, and attend events and talks to support research or field work.

Eligibility

Fellowship is for those either actively engaged or with a background in geography, or a related subject.

Fellowship is also suitable for those who have travelled extensively. If you are using or applying geographical knowledge or techniques in your profession, Fellowship is also for you.

Annual membership costs from £85 (plus a one off joining fee of £30)

To find out more about eligibility see the guidelines found with the application form.

Enjoy these and other benefits:

• Come to London, City and regional lectures or view on our website
• Use FRGS in your title
• Opt to receive any of our three journals – Transactions, Area and Geographical Journal or popular magazine 'Geographical'
• Get discounts on kit and equipment
• Apply for Chartered Geographer status.

Polar Expedition Manual PDF Download

Hey guys!

Just if anyone is interested, and I know we're not going to the Poles, you can join the Royal Geographic Society online and get access to a number of informative features including the above free PDF download. Online registration is free and only takes a couple of minutes. The Royal Geographic Society also publish some of the best expedition planning handbooks this side of the Horsehead Nebula, everything from Desert, 4x4 and Jungle/Rainforest Expeditions to Polar travel. I'm also thinking of becoming a true member aswell, mainly because you can eventually become a Fellow of the Royal Geographic Society and write FRGS after your name, which is obviously far cheaper and alot less time consuming than doing a PHD! This is the link once you're logged in: http://www.rgs.org/NR/rdonlyres/6F643E3F-3167-466F-ABED-95F6915FDE2C/0/PolarManual.pdf

Do It Yourself Pulk!!

Early into a ski tour in Lappland I developed a knee problem that prevented me from carrying my 45lb pack. The emergency sled that I built at the bus stop in the little town of Jokkmokk has since followed me 200 miles, and will no doubt become a standard part of my winter kit. It is stable even on steep descents and traversing slopes. It easily takes an 80l pack with a 70lb load, and if the pack is mounted with the shoulder straps uppermost, the whole assembly can quickly be swung up on the back and worn as normal for traversing difficult terrain and towns.

Here I describe the simple design for those of you who have considered using a sled but have been put off by the cost, size and weight of commercial designs. Materials cost around $10, weight is under 3lb, and it took 30 mins to build with a Swiss army knife.

Materials
A standard child's plastic sled, as flat as possible. 2 x 1.5m x 13mm plastic electrical insulation pipe (conduit) 5m x 6mm nylon rope 1m x 3mm nylon string 2 x 20mm keyrings 2 x snap hooks 2 x 1.5m x 15mm nylon straps
Construction

Cut out holes a-d on the front edge of the sled, with a and d as close to the edge as possible so that the arms can be folded back when not in use. Thread the nylon rope through the holes a-b c-d and the conduits, and knot the ends through the keyrings, as close as possible to the conduits to minimise slack when going downhill. Fasten the strings for the cross members about 1 foot along the conduits at e and f, using glue or tape to stop them sliding towards the sled. Tie the other ends to the sled at g and h with knots that can be undone when the arms are folded back. 4 inches of string through holes i-l hold the arms in the folded position. The cross members are important for stability when traversing slopes. Cut slots m-t and thread through the belts that hold the luggage, and your sled is complete. The simplest waist belt consists of 18 inches of nylon rope tied at both ends to 18 inches of elastic rope with snap hooks at the junctions. If the elastic half is worn in front, one avoids both start-up jerks and over-run downhill. The belt is worn as low on the hips as possible. An alternative design had elastic ropes through the sled arms, and a webbing belt, but I found the give to be excessive. However, if you want to use your backpack waist belt for attachment, elastic rope might be a good solution. A delux Mark-II version of the sled was also built with foldable arms and fixed cross beam, but wasn't really worth the extra effort.

A nice article on Snow Shelter construction

Snow Caves And Other Shelters
December 2nd, 2008 by Muller_Jim
This is an article by Ernest Wilkinson from the Mother Earth News Issue # 078 – November/December 1982. Touted as “Learn how to build safe, snug snow caves and other havens in winter wilderness, plus helpful information on winter camping. “ From http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1982-11-01/Snow-Caves-and-Other-Shelters.aspx
During the winter in the northern Rockies, one can sometimes see a ptarmigan making its home for the night: In full flight, the plump white bird will suddenly dive into a soft drift, hunker down in the resulting depression, and let blowing flakes settle on its feathers to form a protective blanket.
Snow, you see, is one of nature’s most practical insulators. The falling flakes, each of which may contain more than a thousand loosely clustered ice crystals, can pile up into a fluffy mass (composed of as much as 90% air) that is virtually—in form and effect—the frozen equivalent of goose down.
Many of nature’s creatures, in fact, use the heat-retaining qualities of snow for protection from winter’s cold. But we humans, in all of our “wisdom”, generally cling to our dependence upon technology . . . even in situations such as winter mountaineering trips, where—for shelter—we most likely sit huddled within the frigid confines of thin ripstop nylon walls. Worse yet, some individuals have actually perished needlessly from “exposure” to snow and cold, when a little knowledge of the resources at hand—and an ability to use those materials—could have saved their lives.
That’s why, after many years of laboring as a trapper and guide—and after doing considerable search and rescue work here in the mountains of Colorado—I made a special effort to work out effective methods for building snow shelters. It’s also why, when I now lead a group on a winter survival cross-country tour, I don’t allow my students to bring tents. Instead, I teach them to use their wits, and the crunchy substance beneath their feet, to make overnight homes.
SELECTING A SITE
An ideal spot for a snow cave would be a firm bank or drift that’s six feet or more deep. But not everyone who needs winter shelter, of course, will find a place where the precipitation is that substantial . . . and even those who do will sometimes discover—early in the season, especially—that the piled crystals are too loose and powdery to make good caving material.
Fortunately, one of the characteristics of snow is that it tends to compact itself (and harden) once it’s been disturbed. So when the cover is too shallow to accommodate a cave, you can build yourself an “artificial” drift in which to burrow: Find a hill that’s 10 to 20 feet high and covered with 24 inches or more of snow, and then—with a shovel, your feet, or whatever—push the white matter down the incline to form a large pile at the bottom. With that done, wait 10 to 20 minutes to let the material “set”, and then proceed to dig your cave.
Likewise, if you find a site where a drift is sufficiently deep but not firm, you can tromp around the area and poke the powder repeatedly with a stick or your ski poles perhaps also mounding more snow on top and stirring that up a bit—to encourage the mass to harden.
In any case, it’s important to remember that if you’re in an avalanche-prone area, you need to be very careful about choosing a site. Always check with rangers for snow condition reports before venturing into the wilds . . . and be aware that the lee—windless—sides of mountains are particularly dangerous, and that new snow on the ground increases the danger of a slide.
CONSTRUCTION
Virtually every book I’ve read on the subject of snow caving recommends carving a narrow tunnel into a drift or bank, and then hollowing out a larger living area—at the interior end of the shaft—by scooping out the material and transporting it through the burrow to the outside. I’ve found, however, that the method is very time-consuming . . . and that a digger is likely to get a kink in the back—and snow down the neck—in the process.
Therefore, I’ve come up with what I believe is a much better technique: First, open a large vertical hole (about four feet on a side, working from “ground” level up) directly into a drift or pile of snow. You can use a lightweight folding shovel—a tool that I think all winter back-country enthusiasts should carry—or, in a pinch, some kind of make-do implement . . . such as a snowshoe, ski, or flat stick.
When the “doorway” is done, go on to excavate your living quarters by digging out a rounded, dome-shaped area (a flat roof will sag and collapse) that’s somewhat wider and higher than the entrance itself. The exact dimensions of your abode will, of course, be up to you . . . and will depend upon the number of people you intend to house. Given the right snow conditions, you can construct caves large enough for six or more individuals . . . but a smaller shelter—such as the two—person model shown in Figs. 1 and 2—takes less time to build, tends to be more stable, and is a more appropriate project for beginners.

Once you’ve hollowed out the cubicle, take some of the loosened snow and pack it up to form a sleeping bench (or two or three) that’s 20 inches or more high, a bit wider than a sleeping bag, and as long as its occupant-to-be is tall. If you’re building a one-person shelter, you can dig a fairly shallow chamber and position the single platform parallel to the opening. If you’re making a two-person grotto like the one in the accompanying illustrations, you’ll need to excavate a deeper cavity and place a bed on each side of the doorway.
After you’ve finished contouring each bench to your satisfaction, lay a thick “mattress” of insulating material-spruce or fir boughs, dry grass, or a backpacking padon top, and cover that with your sleeping bag. Be careful not to put any substantial weight on the bench just yet, however . . . you’ll need to give the snow a chance to settle before you take your first nap.
Since the next major step in the cave construction is to block up the original 4′ X 4′ entry hole, it’s a good idea to move the rest of your gear inside first. (This is another advantage of my snow-caving technique . . . you don’t have to push, pull, and squeeze your equipment through a tiny, confining burrow to get it under shelter.) You may also want to carve a shelf or two in the cavern’s interior surface, to hold a candle and other small items . . . and thrust a short stick partway into the wall to make a handy clothes hook.
Now—using your shovel, a snow saw, or just your hands—fashion “bricks” from the material that you scooped out of the cavity. For starters, try to make a number of cakes that are the approximate size (precision isn’t required here) of a standard 8″ X 8″ X 16″ cinder block, and then—as you build the wall—custom-tailor whatever others you need to fit specific spaces.
To fill the opening, lay the bricks in courses just as a mason might. Start with a horizontal foundation of end-to-end bricks across the entrance, and then position each block in the succeeding rows so that—whenever possible—it straddles the juncture of the two cakes below it. Remember, too, to spread a handful or so of snow “mortar” between the chunks as you work. The final product will be a sturdy wall that completely closes off the cavity, bottom to top.
At this point, take a break (gather firewood, get some camp chores done, go on a hike, whatever) and allow the wall a chance to firm up. After 20 minutes or so, you and your domicile will be ready for the last few construction steps.
Using a shovel or flat stick, cut a small entrance hole (this one should be just big enough to crawl through) in the bottom center of the snow-brick wall. Ideally, the highest part of the opening should be lower than the top surface of the sleeping benches (rising body heat will then be contained inside the cave), so dig down as close to “floor” level as you can when you cut this cavity.
ABOUT VENTS AND FIRES
Just about here in their instructions, many survival and winter camping manuals will tell you to crawl into the cave and—with a stick or ski pole—poke a couple of small holes through the roof for ventilation. I don’t follow this practice myself, however, for two reasons:
Snow is relatively porous and—in my experience—usually allows plenty of breathable oxygen to pass through the walls and into the cave from outside.
Vent holes let rising warmth escape and draw cold air in through the entrance . . . thus defeating the purpose of the shelter.
(EDITOR’S NOTE: Though many snow-cavers agree with Mr. Wilkinson’s theories concerning vent holes, some do not. One possible compromise would be to thrust a couple of long sticks through the roof but leave the shafts in place, so that they can be pulled out for immediate ventilation if occupants begin to feel the symptoms—which include dizziness and difficult breathing—of oxygen deprivation.)
Interestingly enough, the same people who recommend roof vents will often also instruct you to build a small fire in your cave for warmth, and/or to use a cooking stove in the chamber for preparing meals . . . but these procedures also tend to get in the way of the intended function of your den. Combustion consumes oxygen, of course, and—in addition—the extra heat it produces will tend to increase the interior’s humidity . . . which in turn will make you feel colder, and cause a crust of ice to form on the cave wall that effectively seals off the passage of air from outside. If you don’t use a fire, the inside surface will remain dry, and any snow that gets on your clothes will brush off. But if you do use one—even a small backpacking stove—you’ll get wet virtually every time you come in contact with the walls.
A much better idea, I think, is to reserve the cave strictly for sleeping and resting, and to do your cooking outdoors. If there’s a strong wind, you could build a semicircular breakwall of snow blocks near your abode, and light a fire within its borders.
OTHER SNOW SHELTERS
Although a cave is certainly one of the most effective shelters you can make from snow, it is by no means the only kind. In fact, there are a number of ways you can use snow to obtain protection from the elements.
If there’s deep cover, for example, you can build a home simply by digging a 3- or 4-footwide trench to a depth of 4 (or more) feet. Then put skis, snowshoes, or tree boughs across the opening . . . place brush (or a sheet of plastic) over that . . . and pile an insulating layer of snow on top. Some folks also cut blocks and stack them around the trough (to make raised walls) before installing the roof, and others actually carve additional underground chambers—for storing gear and such—into the sides of the trench.
In forested areas you’ll often find a funnel-shaped “bowl” in the snow on the windward side of a tree . . . and this can be fashioned into a snug home by lining the floor of the depression with boughs and covering the cavity with a roof made from layers of whatever materials are available, finished off with a thick coating of snow.
Of course, there’s also the igloo . . . the classic Eskimo shelter, which—unless you’ve had considerable practice—can be pretty difficult to build. Here again, however, I’ve developed techniques that, I believe, make the task easier.
The traditional method involves cutting blocks and placing them end to end, on their narrow edges, in a circle that gradually spirals upward, round and round, one layer over another. In order to accomplish this, however—and to achieve a dome shape rather than just a vertical wall—each block must be carefully trimmed and positioned so that it both slopes in the ascending direction of the spiral and leans inward slightly.
To simplify the process, I place the rectangular blocks flat on their broad sides . . . make one circle of bricks . . . and then—on successive go-rounds—merely move each layer of blocks inward a couple of inches, so that the desired cupola shape is gradually formed. I use snow “mortar”, too . . . both as I work and to fill any cracks and holes in the final product. Then, about half an hour or so after closing in the igloo, when the structure has hardened, I carve out a small entrance door.
A FEW FINAL POINTERS
Experience, they say, is the best teacher of all . . . and that’s certainly the case when it comes to developing a proficiency at building (and camping in) snow shelters.
After a few winter back-country outings, for example, you’ll acquire a sensitivity to the different kinds of snow—in terms of texture, moisture content, and “packability”—and to the degree to which varying conditions will affect the type of shelter you should (and/or can) build. New precipitation, for instance, is often too fluffy to make good material for a large cave . . . but might be just fine for a one-person chamber.
You’ll also learn, rather quickly, that it’s important to pace yourself as you work . . . making sure that you don’t perspire excessively and—as a result—become overly (and perhaps dangerously) chilled. Always dress in layers, too, so that you can adjust the amount of clothing you’re wearing to suit the weather and the activity at hand. And remember: To stay dry is to stay warm.
In addition, you may find that it takes some time to accustom yourself—both physically and psychologically—to life in a snow cave. You can’t expect such a shelter to be the Waldorf-Astoria, but the grotto’s temperature will hold at a range of 30° to 38°F (once you’ve been inside for a while), and neither you nor such items as jugs of water will freeze . . . even if the mercury outdoors dips to 30 below. Should you be caught in an emergency situation without a sleeping bag, then, a snow cave will still keep you relatively warm. If necessary, you can use a few isometric exercises (tense the muscles in your legs, hands, and feet for several seconds, then let them relax, to stimulate blood flow) off and on through the night to avoid frostbite.
Some folks find that the darkness and silence inside a snow cave can be disturbing . . . so be prepared, when you blow out your candle that first night in your shelter (and do be sure to extinguish the flame, so that it doesn’t consume oxygen while you’re sleeping), to cope with an instant attack of claustrophobia. Most people get used to the quiet and close quarters in a very short time, however.
During the day, if you leave the cave—to go for a hike or gather firewood or whatever—be sure to mark the entrance conspicuously so that you’ll be able to find your home when you return. Remember, too, that snow has a way of “swallowing” camp litter . . . trash that, come spring, will show its ugly face all too plainly. Be sure to keep all refuse and waste in one place, and to pack it out with you when you leave.
And finally, I strongly recommend that you practice building snow shelters before placing yourself in a situation where you might need such a structure. A wilderness emergency—such as getting caught in a sudden blizzard—is not the ideal time to try to construct your first snow cave. And reading the information in this article and in other books is not, by itself, sufficient preparation for—say—going on an overnight cross-country tour without a tent. I always show my students a detailed narrated instructional slide program prior to an outing . . . but even then the participants generally take three or four hours to build their initial cave or igloo.
After you’ve had some experience, however, you should be able to carve out a shelter in an hour or less . . . so take some time this winter to teach yourself the art of snow caving. Find an appropriate site close to home, and spend an enjoyable afternoon or two practicing construction techniques. Once you’ve polished your skills, you’ll be able to explore the wonders of winter’s wilderness with confidence . . . knowing full well that a warm, comfortable home is never more than a few feet—of snow—away.

EXPEDITION PLAN

The journey of "Expedition Arctic Sweden 2010" starts from Stockholm where we will board a train to Abisko, the official start of the famous long distance trail Kungsleden (or King’s Trail, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kungsleden). Though the trail is a total distance of 440 km, the ‘Expedition Arctic Sweden 2010’ will, in its first week, cover the first 100 km of the trail. During this time we will snowshoe through the highest point of the trail (Tjakta Pass, 1,150 m), Alesjaure hut and pass Kebnekaise (2,111 m – Swedish highest mountain).

In the second week of the expedition the team plans to set up a base camp between Kebnekaise and Kebnekaise Fjallstation (There are several huts about 5 hours walking distance from this mountain, http://www.svenskaturistforeningen.se/kebnekaise). The team will do several day trips into the surrounding mountains. The purpose of these day trips will be to expand on current individual knowledge and build team skills. Equipment training is in the teams main interest (self arrest and ice axe training), slope and avalanche assessment, snow shelter/snow cave building, navigation by means of map and compass as well as GPS, and basic survival training (the use of shelters in an extreme environment) to name a few. We want to be looking at local environmental and geological issues, too.

The ‘Expedition Arctic Sweden 2010’ will finish by a final one-day long ski tour from Kebnekaise Fjallstation to Nikkaluokta where we board a bus to Kiruna to catch our train back to Stockholm.

THE ARCTIC

The Arctic is the region around the Earth's North Pole. The Arctic includes Arctic Ocean, that overlies the North Pole and parts of Canada, Greenland, Russia, Alaska, Iceland, Norway, Sweden and Finland.

The "Arctic" comes from the Greek word αρκτικός; (Arctikos), which means "near the bear, arctic, northern".

The Arctic region can be defined as the area north of the Arctic Circle (66° 33’N), which is the approximate limit of the midnight sun and the polar night. This region consists of a vast, ice-covered ocean (which is sometimes considered to be a northern arm of the Atlantic Ocean) surrounded by treeless permafrost. In recent years the extent of the sea ice has declined.

The Arctic region is a unique area among Earth's ecosystems. The cultures in the region and the Arctic indigenous peoples have adapted to its cold and extreme conditions.

THE ARCTIC OZONE